Chasuble with Orphrey Band England, London (embroidery) and Italy, Florence (velvet), early 16th century

Chasuble with Orphrey Band

1500–1520

England, London (embroidery) and Italy, Florence (velvet), early 16th century

Silk, gold thread, sequins; appliqué, embroidery: couching stitches Velvet: solid pile, silk; embroidery: or nué (shaded gold)

Overall: 122.5 x 74 cm (48 1/4 x 29 1/8 in.)

Gift of Walter C. and Alvin W. Littwitz in memory of their father, Max Littwitz 1947.2

Location: not on view

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Description

The English adopted a simpler style of embroidering vestments suitable for mass production around 1500. Isolated motifs, often floral, were embroidered on plain velvet, as in this ecclesiastical chasuble.

The orphrey, or embroidered band, in the center depicts Saints Peter, John the Evangelist, and Andrew, identified by their names and attributes (top to bottom). Most of the surface is covered with gold thread sewn down by silk thread passing over it in different densities to create the effect of modeling. Silk thread was also used to embroider areas of skin and hair (mostly disintegrated).